EuroVelo 6 (The Rivers Route) Bicycle Tour: Bač, Serbia

Help is always present in Serbia.

This morning, while I was loading my saddlebags, a Polish man, who we were talking to, noticed a screw missing on my rear rack. He quickly ran to his own bike and returned with an extra. I secured the rack in place.

I am constantly reminded of the kindness on this planet.

After giving my contact information to a German teaching couple, we cycled into the city of Apatin for a bakery and cafe stop. These places are not tourist spots, and Kelley and Isaac agree that it’s unlikely that many Americans have set foot here.

Leaving the city, we found wide-open country. Butterflies were everywhere, making the moment quite magical. All doors seem to be opening for us.

We entered a protected area that bordered the Danube. It was here that we spotted our first wild boar. Further down the line, we encountered a pair, and then a whole family. I caught the tail end of one adult on video. These pigs can move...

As if foreshadowed by the pigs, we stopped for a massive Serbian meat extravaganza for lunch. We couldn’t read the menu, so we used Google Translate to ask for traditional Serbian food. I’ve been cutting a fair amount of red meat out of my life. This plate set me up for an entire month (or more?).

After lunch, we embarked on a four hour cycling stretch that took us deep into unpopulated areas of Serbia. We had planned to wild camp at a suitable spot, but were warned by a local farmer that there were wolf packs around. I honestly don’t think that wolves or wild dogs would mess with us or our tents, but the man’s facial expressions convinced us to find a hostel. He was truly concerned.

We pedaled into Bač under cover of darkness. Google led us along an incorrect side street on our way to Pansion Jakic. A woman flagged us down and cycled with us one block to the place. The hostel was dark, so she led us around back and roused the proprietors.

Honestly, the willingness to step in and offer a helping hand here is second to none.