In Transit / Paris, France - June 18 - 19, 2018

Eiffel Arrival - Paris, France
After visiting Christian and Kat in Amsterdam over spring break, I decided to purchase a ticket to France for my summer bicycle tour. The EuroVelo 6 route looked interesting enough to commit the summer months to.

This month has been, as is always the case, busy. With two, five-day backpacking trips to the Washington coast with the eighth grade students to plan and execute, grades and the classroom to clean up, as well as visiting family and friends before leaving, I didn’t get around to any packing until Sunday evening. I’m convinced that I forgot something.

A recurring theme that has, for some reason, cropped up this last twenty-four hours is the KISS tune "Shout it Out Loud." While playing Joust at The Machine Shop in Langley with my boys, the chorus of this show starter was on infinite repeat due to a steady amount of quarters being fed into the KISS pinball machine by several patrons. Later, at two o’clock AM, I found myself watching a live, over-produced version of the song from a 1990’s Detroit concert. I don’t really appreciate the lyrics, and only moderately enjoy the band. Where will I find the connection on this new journey?

Bus Pile - Community Transit Route 113
From Clinton, I hopped the ferry, two busses and the Link Light Rail to SEA-TAC Airport for a grand total of $3.75. Why drive?

I chose Condor Air based solely on price. Early on, the stewards pushed movie packages and alcohol. Later, they pedaled cigarettes in the isle. On an airline, light and expensive is the way to go.

The wait time in Frankfurt, Germany, was longer than expected due to a malfunction in the scheduled plane. Lufthansa bussed us to our airplane and the ride to Paris was without further delay.

Condor Smokes
I didn’t encounter any issues with luggage or figuring out the train system at Charles de Gaulle airport. I credit this to my Airbnb host Nathan. The directions to his small apartment were fantastic.

After lugging my bicycle gear up to his studio, I took a short break, then headed out for a long walk on the Seine River. On a warm Tuesday evening, Paris was in love with itself. I have never been to a city where couples so openly share their feelings for one another. The long period of confinement locked in the Condor quickly vanished. The adventure has begun...

Stop Lights
Tube - Paris, France
Up and Out - Paris, France
Airbnb Studio View
Toilet Location - Airbnb Studio
At Night
Does the Model Spark Joy?
Cameras and Eco Transport

Paris, France - June 20 - 22, 2018

Louvre Entrance (Window Overlook) - Paris, France
My stay in Paris is a bonus portion of the trip, a chance to see a few attractions, get over my jet lag and research my next steps (seeing as the tour was almost entirely unplanned).

I’m currently staying in a tiny studio apartment on the fifth floor (no elevator) of a large residential building. The room is simple, but sweet. At just over $50 per night, it’s great deal. It’s a short walk to Notre-Dame (I can see it from my window!) and the Louvre. The nightlife scene is happening. I’ll come back to this city.

The only inconvenience related to the room is that the toilet is located down the hallway (there is a shower in the apartment). I’m becoming used to pocketing toilet paper on the way out the door, a minor hassle.

Mona Crush
Da Vinci Discussion
Fingers
"Liberty Leading the People" - Eugène Delacroix
I took in the Louvre on Wednesday and Versailles on Thursday. The former, as I stated earlier, is within short walking distance. I had to take the rail to Versailles (under €4). Public transportation is a way of life here in the city. I’ve preferred walking the streets, but the subway / light rail system here is astounding and relatively easy to use as a newcomer. Parisians are fit and healthy, a testament to their choices of locomotion.

Subway Style - Paris, France
Palace Key
On warm evenings, one place that I have gravitated to is the banks of the Seine, which runs through the center of the city. Many French gather by the river to socialize while streetlights strobe scattered techno across the water’s surface. The river, here, has impacted me most.

While purchasing my train ticket to Saint Nazaire, I saw that bicycles were allowed on the TGV trains. This sparked me to pursue a used bicycle while in the city. After looking at a couple of local shops, I settled on a Dutch bike for €220. The shop was less than one block away from the entrance to my apartment. My new (old) Batavus has new cables, brakes, chain and rear cassette. The way the bike was constructed looks extremely strong; the aluminum frame is light. A rear rack and fenders were included. I had the shop owner swap out the plastic saddle for my Brooks B17, my recommendation for any bicycle tour. Although the bike is at the limit for standover height, it feels extremely comfortable to ride.

Cycle Centre (Batavus Buy) - Paris, France
I hauled it up five flights of stairs to my rented apartment and set to work. I tweaked the handlebars and seat height to what felt comfortable; if needed, I’ll adjust along the way. My handlebar bag went on with little effort and the old red saddlebags fit better on the rear rack than they do on my Cannondale at home. Did I choose this bike, or did it choose me?

Pay-Per-View - Notre Dame
Hall of Mirrors (People) - Versailles
Glass and Gold - Versailles
Manicure - Versailles Garden
Wandering the Lights (Wedding Pictures) - Louvre
Rat - Paris, France
Covering Behind Blue Eyes - Paris, France

Saint Nazaire, France - June 23 - 24, 2018

Loire and Atlantic - Saint Nazaire, France
The morning of the 23rd I repacked my belongings in my saddlebags, cleaned Nathan’s apartment, hauled my bike down the stairs and cycled to the train station (just over a mile away).

Studio Apartment / Bicycle Garage - Paris, France
Riding through the streets of Paris isn’t bad, the city planners have included bike lanes on all major roads. There are a large number of people cycling in the city. Nothing, of course, compared to Amsterdam.

Waiting for the Train - Paris, France
Ticket to Ride (Bicycle Background)
Although I arrived over an hour early for my train, I encountered a problem at the gate just under twenty minutes before departure. The woman offering help notified me that I needed to pay extra for my bicycle. I should have known this, but when I purchased the ticket in advance, the rail europe website only indicated that the train took bikes, not that I had to pay for a supplemental ticket.
I rushed to the help desks and waited for just over ten minutes until my number was called. The kind lady at the counter saw that I was to depart in eight minutes, quickly took an extra ten euros, reprinted my ticket and sent me on my way.

The train had over twenty cars on it which, of course, I had to roll by to reach the very first coach. I boarded and placed my bike next to an older French woman’s and breathed a sigh of relief. The train departed, on time, three minutes later. There are stresses associated with time, institutional systems and new experiences. I am sorry to admit that this is not the only time I have found myself entering a long distance European train in a sweat.

In Saint Nazaire, over the next day and a half, I rested. Christophe, my Airbnb host, was quite accommodating in that he offered a space in his garage for my bike and allowed me to run a load of laundry. I hung it on a courtyard rack, letting it dry until nightfall.

Nap Situation - Saint Nazaire, France
My hammock came out of the saddlebag for the first time this trip. I snoozed and read. It’s extremely difficult to exit a hammock once you’re in. On a warm day, I’d equate it to a one thousand piece puzzle. Currently, I’m nearing the end of Frank Herbert’s "Heretics of Dune". The man is a genius.

Relaxing on the Boardwalk - Saint Nazaire, France
Atlantic Ocean Overlook - Saint Nazaire, France
Later, I spent time reflecting on the meeting of waters, the Loire River and the Atlantic. It was over spring vacation that I decided to begin my summer bicycle tour in Saint Nazaire by placing my finger on a map. I lingered in two places. Can I find all places?

Cafe Indian Rock was an interesting experience in the evening. There, I found out that the French adore Bob Marley, a "beautiful king". I swear that I took a photograph, but nothing exists on my phone. Also, my sunglasses have disappeared. They were polarized.

Nantes, France - June 25 - 26, 2018



On Monday, I loaded my gear on the bike and set out towards Nantes. The weather was splendid.
The first major task was crossing the Loire Bridge. There was steady traffic moving by me while I stayed to the very right of the bike lane. I considered taking a picture from the highest point, but with the slight wind and tight conditions, I chose to keep moving. I was further influenced Kenny Roger’s "The Gambler", which was running through my mind at the time. This crossing would be rather sketchy in high winds, especially on two wheels.

After getting crossed up initially, I found my way along the EuroVelo 6 route without too many wrong turns. Long, flat stretches were commonplace. Route signs at major junctions were something I looked for and appreciated.

Having a little time on my hands before Kelly Pigott, my riding partner, arrived (due to his late flight), I toured a Spanish galleon on the deep bank of the Loire. The replica ship gave me a historical understanding of wind powered sailing ships in the early age of nautical trade. The hammocks in the crew quarters were inviting.

I met Luc, our Airbnb host, at his place and had an opportunity to chat before Kelly arrived from Madrid with his boxed bicycle.
Kelly and I spent the evening socializing at a lively spot on the western end of an island in the middle of the Loire.
Tuesday was a day to grab groceries and a few essential touring items. We took an Uber to a local Decathlon store. I picked up a cheap pair of cycling sunglasses, bicycle tubes to fit my new wheels, bottle cages and an inexpensive yoga mat.
In the evening, Kelly put his bike together and we cooked a salmon dinner while watching Argentina defeat Nigeria in the World Cup.
Tomorrow, we ride.

Ancenis, France - June 27, 2018


Today, before leaving, we shared a fried potatoes, sausage and scrambled eggs breakfast with Luc before loading up the bicycles leaving. I must say, the Airbnb experience is a great way to meet people in their natural environment. I can’t see myself booking a hotel room anytime in the near future.

The cycling today was almost exclusively on designated bike trail along the Loire. On much of the path, people some thirty years ago had planted trees to enhance the beauty of the route as well as keep the sun off travelers. I’m so impressed with those who are able to see and work for the future even though they will not benefit from the fruits of their labor. Our comfortable ride today was due, in large part, to these planters’ foresight.
At midday, we left the route to climb to the French hill town Champtoceaux. A small restaurant presented itself and we ordered drinks and small edibles. Later, we stopped by a grocery store to pick up lunch and dinner items. I feel like I’m already slipping back into the simple lifestyle that I have grown to love.
Six kilometers outside of Ancenis, we found a campsite. For six euros each, we were able to take our pick of spots, take showers and have use of their grounds. A large party was underway when we arrived. One man offered each of us an hors d'oeuvre.