Throw out the map.
Stopping after a reasonable morning ride, we entered the town of Regensburg. A long vortex ensued. We struck out intent on rejoining the EV6. Getting crossed up at a turn led us to the northern side of the river prematurely. Knowing that we just needed to follow the river east, we started cycling in that direction.
After a few twists and turns, including a bicycle push up the side of a concrete staircase, we faced a dead end at the Danube. Looking east, we found the equivalent of a game trail headed along the shore. Unfortunately, we followed it.
How long has it been since you walked through nettles with shorts on? Early childhood? Once is usually enough to teach a human being to avoid the situation again. I would say that most of us are intelligent enough to avoid this situation for a lifetime. We, on the other hand, chose this activity for the better part of thirty minutes.
After eventually coming to an impassable thicket, we backtracked to a side trail. By some act of God, we reached the end and broke cleanly into the EV6. We were greeted by two girls blasting techno music. The theme of the song seemed to be about legalizing the drug Ecstasy. I’ll need to think on that.
We proceeded to cycle in the evening hours, finding both a beer garden and a free camp along the Danube.
Free camping, while bicycling across Europe, has been a blessing. In Switzerland and Germany, the designated campsites have been few and far between. The ability to freely camp opens up the possibility of cycling until just after nine o’clock.
There are three factors when choosing a free camping spot on the EV6.
1. Look for areas where you are out of the direct view of permanent residents. Tree cover from at least three sides is preferable.
2. Flat ground is, obviously, paramount to a pleasant sleep. Find short grass. If the first two criteria are met, the icing on the cake is the softness of the ground. Stakes should push in fairly easily, but still hold strong. Extra soft ground will jeopardize the tautness of the tent. To make pushing your stakes in a pleasure, keep your right cycling glove on.
3. Lastly, and this is of great importance, be certain that you are within short walking distance of a major river. This will allow for your skinny dip / bath at the end of your long cycling day.
Although I am in the process of fine tuning my technique, I have developed a simple method for bathing in European rivers. Below, I will share what has worked for me.
Before you enter the water, completely set up your tent and lock your bike to a tree (if possible). Take out your bar soap container, shampoo bottle, towel and clean clothing. Put all of these items on the riverbank close to the river.
Note: Do not place these items too close to the water’s edge. There are times when motorboats pass by. Many throw a big wake that could potentially soak your things and (worse case scenario) sweep them down river.
Put your flip flops on and strip. Put dirty clothes up high on the river bank. Enter the water with your shampoo bottle (travel size) in hand. Carefully walk into the river, then, when you have your balance and are approximately waist deep, dive out into deeper water. Breathe. Breathe. Relax.
Paddle in to a place where you can stand comfortably. Squirt a little shampoo onto your hand. Place the small shampoo bottle in the water beside you. It will float, but not too far. Wash your hair as you normally would with both hands, keeping a watchful eye on your shampoo bottle so as to not lose it downstream. When you hair is satisfactorily lathered, grab your shampoo bottle in one hand and submerge your entire body in the river. Scrub the soap out of your hair with your free hand.
Note: To avoid getting water up your nose, lightly blow water out of it while you are under the surface.
After your hair is clean, return to the bank, deposit your shampoo bottle and pick up your bar of soap.
Note: I cycle with a long-handled scrub brush which I also pick up at this time.
Enter the river again. Smile. Heaven is a place on earth.
Stand on the bottom with your knees above the water. Use the bar soap and scrub brush to clean up as you would at home. Let the brush float when not in use. Keep an eye on it. When finished, place both items back on the shoreline. Enter the river one more time to rinse off.
I would strongly suggest going for an extended swim at this time; at a minimum, paddle around for awhile. Throughout this process, keep your flip flops on. Don’t worry, they won’t get carried off your feet.
Return to the shore to dry off and put on clean clothing. Your tent is ready to climb into. Expect pleasant dreams.
These methods are a starting point. When you slip into this lifestyle, you’ll find your own path.
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